Pressure Switch & Control Box Repair

The pressure switch is a small part with a big job: it tells the pump when to start and stop. Burned contacts, a cracked diaphragm, or a stuck lever can mimic a dead pump. The same goes for a tired start capacitor in the control box. These are among the most common well pump service calls, and they are often fixed without pulling the pump.

Call (540) 384-5816 or email info@roanokewellpumprepair.com for pressure switch and control box help from Roanoke Well Pump Repair.

Symptoms of a Bad Pressure Switch

Pump never starts even though the tank is empty
Pump never shuts off
Rapid clicking at the switch
Scorch marks or a burnt smell at the switch cover
Cut-in or cut-out pressures that drifted far from the labeled settings

Control Box Issues We See

Submersible systems often use a control box with capacitors and relays. Heat, age, and lightning take them out. A humming pump that will not start is a classic capacitor clue. We test before condemning the downhole motor.

How the Repair Goes

1. Kill power and confirm it is off.

2. Inspect switch contacts, springs, and tubing.

3. Test control box components when present.

4. Replace failed parts with correctly rated equipment.

5. Set cut-in/cut-out to match your tank pre-charge.

6. Verify clean starts and stops at a fixture.

Service Area

Roanoke, Salem, Lynchburg, Bedford, Christiansburg, Blacksburg.

Pressure Switch FAQ

Can I adjust the switch nuts myself?

Not recommended without knowing your tank pre-charge and safe pressure limits. Wrong settings can damage the tank or leave you with unsafe pressure.

Why did the new switch fail quickly?

Often a waterlogged tank or a pump that is binding. The switch was a symptom. Fix the root cause.

Is this the same as a low-water cutoff?

No. A low-water cutoff protects against a dry well. Different device, different purpose, sometimes both are present.

Fix the Switch Before You Replace the Pump

Call (540) 384-5816 or email info@roanokewellpumprepair.com.